During baking more of the sugar dissolves, which causes the dough to soften and spread. The proportion of sugar in most cookie dough recipes is so high that only about half of the sugar dissolves during mixing. It also encourages spreading as the sugar melts. SugarĪside from adding sweetness, granulated white sugar makes cookies browner (by caramelizing) and crisper (by absorbing moisture in the dough). At higher ratios, whole-grain flours will make cookies denser, less chewy, and slightly gritty. Substituting no more than 30 percent of the flour in the recipe with whole-grain flour imparts a nuttier, heartier flavor. For this reason, unbleached flour is a better choice where a slightly chewier texture is desired, as in drop cookies and nut bars.Īnother option for baking is whole-grain flour, such as whole wheat. Drop cookies tend to fall in the middle, with the exact ratio depending on whether the cookie is to be thick or thin, chewy or crumbly, or soft or crisp.īleached and unbleached flours are basically interchangeable in cookie recipes, but the bleaching process alters protein structures, resulting in less gluten formation in doughs and batters made with bleached flour. In fluid-batter cookies like brownies, a lower proportion of flour to the amount of liquid or egg results in a cakey or chewy texture. Cookies that need to hold their shape during baking, like biscotti or pinwheel cookies, also have a high ratio of flour. In dry cookie dough, like shortbread, a high proportion of flour to the small amount of liquid in the butter produces a tender, crumbly texture. Flourĭepending on its ratio to other ingredients in the dough, flour makes cookies chewy or crisp or crumbly. Here, we’ll explain the science behind the way these ingredients work to create both flavor and structure. That’s because the structure of a baked good like a cookie has to be built from the ground up, and every ingredient flour, sugar, fat, eggs, leaven, and salt-plays a key role. But when baking, it’s a completely different story, since ingredient amounts truly matter. When it comes to sautéing a chicken breast or making a pasta dish, many cooks can wing it.